With the availibility of synthetic nets and other products it is possible to be able to design and make easy to manage costumes.
The first tutu's were made of Tarleton, that had to be washed, starched, and ironed dry to become stiff enough to hold it's shape. I can remember working with the Bolshoi, then the Kirov in the early sixties, and they were still quite primotive in their costumes, only using the poorest decorations. and hand dyed white basic type
Tarleton (muslin). It was hard work, as by then most of our Royal Ballet Tutu's were made of "modern" nets.
Over the years the basic shape and pattern of the standard Tutu has not changed, the major difference being the wider availibility of fabrics to choose. You may get a particular designer do something different, which neither gives the correct support or comfort to the dancer. In fact some Tutu bodices which do not have the correct panels, which should total 10=12 panels per bodice to give a flattering fit to the danceer. Some of the modern tops which only have darts to give it shape, do not give comfort and the right flattering shape. They may be quicker and easier to make, but the end result is no where near as good as the tradional type.
This brings us to the main basque on which the base sits. This consists of a petersham waistband, that joins onto the top of an inner basuqe, cut on the cross, this is doouble material, part cotton, underneath, and on top the same material used for the bodice. The panty section is made of soft rayon net, which is stronger and thicker than the top net. Onto this is sewn up to 25 layers of tight frills, which are fixed about 1 inch appart, increasing from half an inch wide to the desired length of the top layer. At intervals we placed Tutu Ties, made of the full strands of embroidery silk, which was threaded through the layers of the net, to safe guard the boys fingers, when lifting. . and of course to hold the layers in shape. The bottom of each frill would be shaped in scollops or like a triangle, which if you were clever, could be cut without a pattern quickly by hand with a pair of very sharp scissors. (And I had the scars to prove it!!)
When the costume had reached this point the decoration would be sewn on but only in a certain way, as you had to remove it sometimes to wash the Tutu, and dare not ruin it . Beautiful embroidery with Gold thread on ,jewels and sequins can be quite fragile. Y ou had to know exactly what you were doing, or disaster could strike. The whole costume would be hung up, from the crotch, with the frills facing downwards. They were stored and travelled laying flat in specially made 3ft square cases, with a lid.
In recent times I have noticed that the Russian Tutu's have ugly plain panty sections, with no attractrive frills to cover the undneath of the costume, all you see is like a leotard bottom. Ver distracting leaving a hard line not at all pleasing to the eye. ( or at least not an experienced designer, costumier's and Wardrobe Mistress's eye !!)
Have a good look at Tutu's today, and see if you can spot the difference ? Maybe compare the Companies and Countries............ :flowers:Nanarina
0
