Mashinka thank you for that beautiful story!
papeetepatrick, i hope the following ramblings will answer some questions:
While ballet as we know it spread through 19th century Europe, Greeks were busy with a 10 year independence war, forming the structures of modern government (still working on that one, not too successfully

), acquiring monarchs, later deposing them, getting the state bankrupt, participating in wars, revolutions, political movements and generally various kinds of upheaval. Money was in very short supply, especially for 'frivolous' and costly enterprises like ballet. Until the late 1920s theatrical dance was limited to revues and other such haphazard spectacles.
The catalyst for theatrical dance was Isadora, whose appereances captured the imagination of a public heavily invested in a Greek identity and the Greek past (understandably so, after four centuries of Ottoman/Turk rule). Simple choreographies first appeared in the Chorus part of ancient drama revivals and Duncan's influence was evident (with a fair amount of Dalcrose eurithmics thrown in for good measure)
In the years to come modern dance continued to be perceived as the most suitable language to convey the unique perspective of greek dance creators. The most popular genre for most of the 20th century has been horotheatro, literally dance theater. Ballet was always something of a foreign language and something for which most dancers were thoroughly unprepared for.
The local non-classical dance scene is going through a renaissance at the moment. Ever since the 90s there has been an outpur of interesting new work produced, a lot of creative energy, numerous small groups (more than 50), some very good ones among them, interesting dancers. It's a very lively contemporary dance scene and there's a sizable audience that follows it.
The ballet company was created as a part of the Opera in 1939-1940. Evenings with all-ballet programming started in the 60s. The company is perennially underfunded and struggling with limited means, limited vision and a certain parochialism. It has no theater, which means huge sums are spent each year to rent unsuitable venues. But the most important issue affecting the level of the company is the quality of dance education in Greece. Someone we know once said "But first, a school!". Well, that here was kind of an afterthought.
Dance schools are designated by law as either Professional or Amateur. There are about 10 professional schools, most private. Until very recently you had to be 18 to audition for one of the professional schools(!) A bit late by then to get serious, even if meanwhile you hone your craft at a decent amateur school (not many of them either). Recently this changed. Students aspiring to be dancers can now audition for a place at a professional school at 16 years old, while students aspiring to be teachers still audition at 18. The students audition before a committee from the ministry of culture (I'm not making this up)
The quality and content of education at different schools varies considerably. Many professional schools focus on modern/contemporary dance. This is both an artistic and a practical choice. There is no employer for classical dancers except the National Ballet which has about 60 dancers. About two thirds of the dancers have permanent contracts (places open when someone retires), the rest have short term contracts. Salaries are so low that most are forced to take second jobs. There have been urban ballet legends of soloists working nights at the bouzoukia (and they're probably true)
Mukhamedov is not the first well known dancer to collaborate with the NBoG. There have been occasional stagers and teachers from abroad, but no one stayed for long or had a lasting influence. Igor Zelensky was here in the early '00s. He staged (and danced) some very ambitious productions: Sleeping Beauty, Raymonda, Don Quixote. Too ambitious perhaps for this company - they exposed a host of flaws and limitations. It was generally agreed at the time that the strength of the company lies in dramatic dance and not in the classical repertory. Think Cranko rather than Petipa.
So Lynn Seymour who arrived in 2006 was considered an ideal fit. Who better than a great dance actress to direct a company depending mainly on its dramatic ability? Yet somehow it didn't work out. The official version of the story is recounted in this old thread.
http://ballettalk.invisionzone.com/index.p...st&p=210416The decision to program almost exclusively contemporary works tanked at the box office (while opera tickets sold out, the ballet danced for audiences of 50 people). Apparently people expect to see ballet when they go to the ballet, even if they have spent the previous night looking at Pina Bausch.
Mukhamedov came with Lynn Seymour, as an "artistic coordinator". He later said that he was not given any responsibility. As always with such cases it's hard to know what actually happened. He became AD a few months after Seymour's resignation.
A year is too short a time for any significant improvement but it seems the NBoG is indeed lucky to have him. Not only was he an outstanding dramatic artist and very knowledgeable but I can think of few people who can unblinkingly face all the bureaucracy, the intrigues, the unions and the irrational organisation of things... Talking about that stuff, he sounds almost unperturbed while the average western-european is shocked to the core. I imagine growing up at the old Bolshoi must help
Four programs have been staged since he took the post. The first, selected by the previous administration, was a felicitous mixed bill of Paquita/Moor's Pavane/Napoli divertisments. Mukhamedov came out of retirement to dance Othello for a couple of nights. His dramatic power is undiminished. But time is cruel to dancers...

What most impressed me was that Bournonville was danced with an effort at stylistic accuracy. That's more than can be said for much better companies that the NBoG and despite the various technical faults, it made me so happy I almost cried.
The second program was Van Dantzing's Four Last Songs and a new work. The third program was Giselle, staged by Mukhamedov, with the dancers giving strong dramatic interpretations all around.
In July they danced Zorba at various places, with Mukhamedov as Zorba. "If it sells more tickets I will perform" he said, and to me at least that sounded ominous, a bit like the late Nureyev. I haven't seen the Zorba, just the Moor. I'm a long time fan of Irek, the dancer. But as i said time is a cruel thing.
The struggle for power over the National Opera that had Seymour's departure as a side effect is still playing out at this time. A new law that would significantly limit the power of the National Opera's artistic director has been proposed. If it passes it will influence the way things work at National Ballet as well.
The festival that Mashinka mentions has undergone significant changes in the last three years under the directorship of George Loukos. It now takes place in various other venues besides the Herodion and Epidavros and is entirely contemporary in character. At first that looked like the end of ballet performances but that was not the case as it turned out. Ballet performances still take place, independent of the festival, at venues like the Lycabetus theater or the Pallas, while the festival offers contemporary dance at a world class level.
Mashinka, if you plan to visit please PM me, I can help. The Megaron site is useless anyway, I don't know anyone who can navigate that mess. But the events are known almost a year in advance. This year there will be a long visit (10 days) from the Cuban ballet around Christmas with Don Quixote and Giselle. Also visits from the Martha Graham Dance Company and the Eiffman ballet doing Red Giselle. There are events outside the Megaron, such as a Zakharova and friends gala. Ivan Vasiliev is reported to dance in it. I'll believe that when I see it though.