I was thinking tonight about how many of us travel to see a performance or company we're dying to see or just use ballet as a great excuse to travel.

Perhaps we might want to offer some advice or tips for each other, or even inspiration for those contemplating a ballet excursion?

Also, out of curiosity, where have you traveled to see ballet, and where would you like to go?

Most recently, I've gone to Copenhagen, London and Seattle on performance related travel but the city I love returning to most is Paris to see the Paris Opera Ballet. I've also found Paris to be a surprisingly reasonable vacation, because there are numerous small tourist hotels (something much harder to find in NYC). My favorite there is the Hotel Castex.

For cheap travel, I've found the Internet to be a boon, travel bargain hunter's guides are everywhere, one rather inclusive one is at www.smarterliving.com that goes through almost all the steps to ferreting out cheap airfares and hotels.

Places I am curious see ballet? San Francisco and even more, Saint Petersburg. I'm hoping some of the seasoned globetrotters and Russophiles can give some tips about how to deal with schedules, tickets and affordable accomodations!

The only travel that I've done mostly for ballet was a four-day trip last summer to Edinburgh, to see the New York City Ballet.
There were some not too expensive plane tickets for Paris, and since most hotels are pretty full and expensive during the Edinburgh festival, we stayed at a youth hostel in the center of Edinburgh (URL http://www.syha.org.uk, in case anybody would like to go there this summer). We managed to see four performances in three days, and did some tourism- the weather was very rainy (worse than Marseille in february), but well, who needs sun when you can see Peter Boal dance? ;)

There are quite a lot of places where I'd like to go, but I'd need a bit more time and money...

I love to go abroad to see performances and have travelled extensively throughout Europe to see favourite dancers, new productions etc. My favourite destination is also Paris, it’s the city I love best and there is always so much to do and see there

Every summer there are a number of arts festivals held in some outstanding locations. I particularly recommend Athens, where the performances take place in an ancient amphitheatre built into the slopes of the Acropolis. I have seen the Royal Ballet and the Bolshoi Ballet there and it was an unforgettable experience..

Russia is a problematic destination for a number of reasons, but once you get there you will have a wonderful time. Basically you have two travel options. Either you go on an all-inclusive tour, which will be expensive and possibly regimented, or you can go as an independent traveller. The latter option is fraught with problems as all your travel arrangements must be in place before you can start to apply for a visa and the cost of your visa will depend on the length of time remaining before departure. Travel agents specializing in Eastern Europe can help but will try to put you into an up market hotel and their flights are rarely the cheapest.

Be sure to read the Time Out Guide or the Lonely Planet guide when choosing a hotel. I haven’t been to St P. for many years but am reliably told by ballet fans that the cheapest tourist hotels are a considerable distance from the city. Be prepared for unusual sights at your hotel such as heavily armed security men and lobbies full of call girls.

I often travel to Moscow and imagine that ticket arrangements in St P. are the same as those in Moscow. You buy your tickets on the street outside the theatre. The ticket touts are actually more knowledgeable than the box office staff and they will all speak English to you. However always be prepared for sudden cast and programme changes. If you know any Russian dancers ask them for information about the dance scene in the city, they will tell you all the latest news about performances that you would otherwise miss.

Finally, the best advice I can give is to learn some Russian before you go. Without a basic knowledge of the language and the alphabet, Russia will seem a very bewildering place.

Mashinka, thanks for this very interesting information. Like Estelle, I have been dreaming of going to St Petersburg, but your notes confirm everything I heard from the few people I know who went there - going on a package = furiously expensive but probably the best if you don't speak Russian; going as independent traveller = quite difficult.
Personally, I love to go to London, where for "normal" productions at ROH day seats are available, so if you queue early enough you are sure to get a seat on the day and don't have to book months in advance.
Shame on me, I have never been to Paris (yet).
Vienna will come up with some interesting productions in the next season, and the big plus there are the standings - you have to queue for them, but they used to be only 20 or 30 Austrian Shillings (sorry, don't have the exchange rate, but it's REALLY cheap!). Once you have your ticket, you run to the standing places, secure your place by knotting a scarf or similar to the place, and then you have almost about an hour before the performance starts so you can grab something to eat. The best of those standings are just behind orchestra stalls, with a perfect view of the stage - and I have found it incredible, that you are standing just centimetres behind people on seats costing about 2000 Austrian Shilling, if you manage to get into first row!

I'M GOING TO THE BALLET IN LONDON THIS SUMMER!! In case someone missed that. Can't wait. I've gone to several ballet cities when there was no ballet, Paris of late. I love going to New York. I stay at a hotel right across the street from Lincoln Center (not cheap) and OD on NYCB and ABT. I'd love to see POB in Paris, and I'd love to go to Copenhagen.

Giannina

Sonja et al - Go to St. Petersburg and stay at the St. Petersburg Int'l Youth Hostel. Beautiful, sparkling-clean building. Just off Nevski Prospekt - Ploschad Vostaniya station...or easy $5 cab ride to Mariinsky. Only up to four 'beds' per room...many rooms with only two beds, so if you are going with a friend, you have your own 'hotel room' minus private bath. Beautiful, clean bathroons just down the hall!

Unlike Europeans, Americans seem to be a bit squeamish about staying in hostels. Once a person gets over this notion that "I must have my private room!" he/she will be liberated to an incredible world of low-cost, yet comfortable, travel. Believe me - you will not regret it. Save money for what means the most to you: ballet tickets!

Check out Hostelling International's website:
www.iyhf.org

...and that of its U.S.-based affiliate:

www.hiayh.org

The St. Petes and Moscow hostels also arrange your visas. Easy-does-it!

I'm hostelling my way around China very soon. That's $6.50/night in Beijing...two blocks from the Forbidden City. Shanghai: $6/night, on the Bund, two Metro stops from Ballet Competition site. Guilin: $4.50/night - breakfast included. Urumqi: $2.50 in a "yurta" tent beside an alpine lake, high in the mountains....and includes an outdoor breakfast cooked by a Kazakh fellow named Rashid! I'm connecting the towns by taking trains, which can be booked ahead of time in each hostel. Dirt-cheap for each leg of the journey in 'hard sleeper' accomodations.

Int'l airfares will 'kill you' if you don't book several months in advance...especially for travel to Europe in high season (summer). I booked my DC-Beijing-DC round trip airfare in mid-December, for travel in August/September. Cost: $720, tax included.

Total budget for five weeks in China: $1,400 including film, gifts, visas, everything.

General advise? Keep an open mind. Travel light. Know what you want to do & arrange what you can ahead of time. Smile a lot and try to show patience & respect always; you are the guest in their country.

[ 06-21-2001: Message edited by: Jeannie ]

I was hoping you'd respond, Jeannie!

People can look at the St. Petersburg hostel directly at www.ryh.ru It looks rather pleasant.

I hate to admit it though, but I am one of those "I must have my own room" Americans. I'm not squeamish, just not a great traveler, and an erratic sleeper. I need to feel like my schedule isn't disturbing anyone else. Any suggestions for those that want their own room? (I wonder if you could just pay for two and go alone.)

Also, where can we find a future events in Saint Petersburg website? The Maryinsky site only goes to July (find it at www.balletcompanies.com and then click on Russia and then Kirov Ballet in Russian - have no fear, it is bilingual) Even so, the schedule is very tempting. It seems like there is Opera or Ballet almost every night.

Ohhh...it probably wouldn't be in the 'hosteling spirit' to do that, Leigh. Sort of an unwritten rule. If you try to do so (pay for both beds...or four beds, to get a room to yourself) it should be in the 'off-tourist season' (October through April) which , lucky for us, is the main opera-ballet season. In summer/White Nights, when folks are lining up for any available bed, it just is not done.

Unfortunatley, St. Petersburg doesn't have a 'Boris' Red Roof Inn' with middle-of-the-road prices.

As for tix, I've never gone to Russia on my own penny for specific performances. I just make sure that I go during a period when all theaters will be in operation (Mariinsky - Mussorgaky/Maly - Hermitage). That's practically any month except August or September, if you want to see the top ballet troupes. Go to the kiosks & see 'what's playing.' I've never had a non-ballet night in St. Petes...ever! If it's not one of the above theaters with regular repertoire, then there are special ballet concerts occurring in any of a number of 'mixed-use theaters' such as October Concert Hall, Alexandrinsky Theater, Anichkov Palace, etc, etc. I'll try to dig-out web site addresses for schedules later. Bolshoi (in Moscow) publishes the schedule for the entire year in advance; not so the Mariinsky or other St. P. theaters. Compared to five years ago, it's a miracle that you can get TWO MONTHS in advance.

Oh...and it doesn't hurt to invest in a Beginners Russian course, if you plan to travel independently. It's not too difficult to learn the Cyrillic Alphabet, so that you can read signs and find your way about. Differentiate between 'Lebedonoe Ozero' & 'Spiachaya krasavitsa' on the ticket-kiosk posters. [For China, I've been taking lessons in Mandarin @ Berlitz, to read important signs & get on the right trains! Company pays for that...so not on my personal budget. ]

[ 06-21-2001: Message edited by: Jeannie ]

I've only gone to New York to see the ballet. It's a short flight from Toronto, and I stayed at the Marriott- World Trade Centre. They have good weekend rates, and the subway station is nearby ( just through the shopping mall). Subway is probably the cheapest mode of transportation, and I found it quite easy to use. I love the city: great museums and shopping! And it's great because you can see 2 major ballet companies: NYCB and ABT. The only drawback for us Canadians is the exchange rate. I found food to be very expensive in NYC. The price for a sandwich and salad lunch in a "cheap" diner could easily buy me a gourmet dinner back in TO. Oh well, seeing Angel Corella's worth it ;)
I hope I can travel to San Francisco, Paris,and London in the future. I've never been to Paris, is it easy to get by with English? I take French in school but I'm *far* from fluent. Or to Montreal when they have the Gala Des Etoiles. I'd also like to see NYCB in Saratoga, I could drive there. I'd like to visit Japan, if a company like RB, POB, Kirov, etc. toured there. They don't really have a famous home company, but when I went to Osaka, I found the people in general really appreciate and support ballet, a lot more than in Canada. They have a beautiful dance magazine ( I should learn how to read Japanese!) and gorgeous ballet shops ( surprisingly spacious for Japan). But then there's the language problem again. When I went to Japan before, I had a homestay, which is very different from travelling alone. I've also heard that hotels and food there is quite steep. But I'd still love to go there, during spring when the cherry blossoms are in bloom!

For the last several years, we've exchanged homes with people in different European cities. A great way to save money as there are no hotel costs and you can cook instead of eating out. We've arranged our exchanges through Intervac.org. It costs about $90 per year to register.

Leigh, here's the link to NY Times travel section "What's doing in St. Petersburg" including lodging info:
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/06/travel/WDPETE.html

Leigh, sometimes there are hostels with single rooms. For example, the hostel where we stayed last summer in Edinburgh had only single rooms, and they were not too expensive (around 16£)- actually we did the opposite of what you suggested, i.e. booking two single rooms and using one!

I've read that there are also hostels in Paris, and some of them have double or single rooms (price around 115F, breakfast included).

In Paris, it might be interesting for travelers to buy "L'officiel des spectacles" or "Pariscope", both are small weekly guides (costing respectively 2FF and 2.50FF) with lists of cinemas, theaters, museums, exhibitions, etc. I often learnt the existence of some dance performances thanks to that guide (especially modern dance performances in small theaters, or performances in suburbs like Nanterre, Massy, Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, Bobigny, Evry...)
Also it's quite useful if one is interested in cinema, as the choice in Paris is very large, with a lot of old movies being shown in the small cinemas of the Quartier Latin, and often a tenth of small festivals at the same time (and even sometimes ballet documentaries )

I travel every year to Paris specifically to see the POB dance, My visit this year will be in November. The only exception was last year when the POB danced Le Bayadere at the opening of the Lowry Theatre; I attended all three days!

I visit my daughter in Washington DC every year and go by train to New York to see ABT. This year I also managed to see three ballet performances at the Kennedy Centre. I am not sure if this counts as travelling to watch ballet.

The ultimate travel purely to watch ballet would be to St. P. to the see the Kirov in their home theatre, maybe next year.

Giannina, what performances are you going to in London, maybe we can meet at the ROH.

Leigh - I was looking at the St. Petes Hostel site and, indeed, it appears that they now have hotel-like 'double rooms' which you can book. When I stayed there 4-5 years ago, they only had "dorm beds". The etiquette for gobbling-up 'dorm beds' to make a private room is different from booking a hotel-like double room. So I think that your problem is solved! It REALLY is a nice place, and the staff are super-helpful in obtaining hard-to-come-by theater tix.

The hostel is also a good 'jumping-off point' for a longer stay (one month +), in which case you can arrange for a small apartment with 'locals.' Don't book the 'apartments' in the classified ads of the St. Petes newspapers, which are at Western prices. Since I stayed at the hostel in 1995, I have found a private apartment...but you have to take the first step to arrive & aclimate yourself to the city, then seek the apartment. The first trip to a certain city is always a bit of a chanllenge; subsequent visits are a breeze.

Good luck! I hope that all of you make it to St. Petes, in due time.

Colwill, e-mail me at
moons1295@aol.com
Anyone else? E-mail me!

Giannina

[ 06-22-2001: Message edited by: Giannina Mooney ]

Giannina - Nice little London tip...interesting for all, so I'm not e-mailing you privately:

Unless you have a LOT of luggage, you should consider taking the 'Heathrow Express' (fast train) from Heathrow Airport into mid-town London's Paddington Station. At Paddington, you can easily connect to the regular 'Underground' (tube). Once you clear Customs, just follow the signs to the "Heathrow Express' terminal within the airport....A cheaper alternative is the reguylar Underground (tube) from Heathrow...but takes much longer and not as 'relaxing'

Not sure where your hotel is, but you can connect directly from Paddington Station to the Underground line that stops at Trafalgar Square/The Strand (area of the Royal Opera House and Coliseum theaters). This is MUCH FASTER than going 'overground' by taxi or minibus or automobile...by 'pet peeve' of traveling to London is the HOURS that it can take to get to your hotel from Heathrow, especially if you're in a minivan taht stops at ump-teen different hotels. The Heathrow Express eliminates that hassle. You're off the plane and at your hotel within one hour, maximum!

I thank one-thousand-fold the Ballet.co.uk 'regular' who first told me about the Heathrow Express. Boy, does it save time AND 'nerves'!

Leaving tomorrow for Austria and France. I couldn't find any ballet going on in Vienna while we're there, but got tickets to Paris Opera Ballet. Had to choose between Romeo and Juliet at the new Bastille location, and Midsummer Night's Dream at the Palais Garnier (where I went many times when I lived in Paris MANY years ago) I opted for the latter. Besides the dancing itself, I wanted my daughters to see the fabulous Chagall ceiling. I've never seen the Neumeier Midsummer -- only Balanchine. Does anyone know anything about this production?

Jeannie....thank you so muchfor the travel tip; we shall definitely use it.

Giannina

I'm reviving this topic, hoping that people will start to get their desire to travel back again, and that ballet will be an incentive.

I'm going to Toronto next weekend to see the National Ballet of Canada do Mozartiana, Pastorale and Solitaire (Balanchine/Kudelka/MacMillan), I'll report back after.

As for those contemplating a trip to NYC to see NYCB, scanning the calendar, I'd recommend aiming right after New Year's for the two all-Balanchine programs on January 2nd and 3rd.

How about other cities? Any natives want to mention upcoming season highlights?

SFB's Program V looks very promising if you like to see new ballets (which I do). It runs from April 2-13. Joanna Berman's farewell solo will be on this program.

December and the end of November might be an interesting period to go to Paris, because there are three series of performances at the Paris Opera overlapping:
-a "homage to Kochno" including Balanchine's "Prodigal son" (Nov 25- Dec 11)
-Nureyev's "Bayadere" (Nov 17- Jan 5)
-a Robbins- Li- Fokine- Nijinsky mixed bill
(Dec 19- Jan 4)
Plus a free program by the Conservatoire de Paris
around Dec 15, and probably some other programs in suburb theaters.

Entirely agree with Mashinka, going to Russia without basic knowledge of Russian language can be a nightmare. But once you know your way around in the city, it's more than wonderful. I usually plan to see the Kirov perform in their home country or anywhere during the winter. Less crowded, beautiful scenery, cheap accommodation, etc. As Jeannie said, St Petersburg Int'l Youth Hostel is perfect for budget travel, especially during winter. You can hail a cab from Mariinsky at night for an incredibly cheap rate (compared to London) or even jump on a bus or trolley back to the Hostel. Very easy. If you're lucky, you may bump into the dancers at the bus stop, like myself coming across Veronika Part last year. For those interested in going to the Mariinsky Ballet Festival II, it's wiser to make an advance booking for tickets. Try emailing Ms.Churilova (only if she's still working there!) at maria@mariinsky.ru
For the time being, I'm dreaming to go to see the Kirov at, according to Kevin Ng, the MET next July and Beijing, Shanghai in September.

[ November 02, 2001: Message edited by: NO7 ]

Hotel Castex! I stayed there a few years ago with a Rick Steves tour group. You've seen Steves' shows on PBS - Europe Through the Back Door. His books are the absolute best for independent travelers on a low budget who have outgrown the backpack/sleep-on-the-station-floor days but still want flexibility and convenience. Sad for me though, when i was in Paris there was no ballet that week!

I'm going to Amsterdam at the end of March and want to see the Dutch National Ballet. For any Dutch posters, should I order tickets online or can I wait til I get there?

Also, any one where I could take open, adult ballet classes in Amsterdam.

Other suggestions on dance events would be most welcome as well.

I have travelled to Amsterdam from London quite a few times in the past to see the Dutch National Ballet, e.g. in their Balanchine programme. I normally bought tickets before the performance, and didn't have any problems on those occasions.

[ February 17, 2002: Message edited by: Kevin Ng ]

Just thought this thread might be worth reviving, as I know there are quite a number of new posters, and readers, on board.

Thanks for doing this, BW.

Reading through this, a few notes: The Castex Hotel in Paris remodeled this year and the prices doubled

For those visiting New York, eating inexpensively can be done a few ways. Grabbing food at one of the Asian delis (They're mostly Korean, and a mammoth salad bar tends to be ubiquitous) or yes, fast food, can keep prices down. The location of an eatery has a lot to do with its price, some neighborhoods are more expensive than others. To grab a meal before a performance at Lincoln Center, I'd recommend the stretch of restaurants on 9th Avenue in the 50s. It's a short walk, and they're inexpensive. Rock bottom is the Chinese noodle house Mee on 53 & 9th which is very low on atmosphere (its decoration style is Early Flourescent) but the kitchen is excellent.

I'm going to Toronto to see the mixed program in February. Will you be around, Paquita?

Wow, what a great thread. A lot of vicarious pleasure, since I am mostly in the NY metro area lately...For those of you coming here, I want to echo Leigh's comments on Mee Noodle. Also try Pam's Real Thai on 49th off 9th. Also cheap, also no decor, also good. And for a place to stay -- not at hostel rates, but below the usual NY prices -- do a search on Club Quarters, a chain of nice corporate hotels that rent out to the public on weekends at fairly decent rates.

Yup, Pam Real Thai is quite good. There's a curry with string beans that's great there (I think it's E11!)

Favorite Ballet Alertnik Pre-and Post Theater Eats (all reasonable - by average meal I'm including tax & tip for an entree and some other item, either an appetizer or a drink)

• Mee - average meal under $10
  
  
• Pam Real Thai - average meal $10-$12
  
  
• Wondee Siam (There are two, both within a block of each other on 9th & 52-3) Wondee II is a bit more expensive than Wondee I, it's also prettier inside. The Thai beef salad at both places is great. I think the kitchen at Wondee I is a little better. Average meal $10-$12
  
  
• Saigon Fun - 51st & 9th. Vietnamese instead of Thai - great soups and the Bo Luc Lac (Beef Cubes in French Butter) is a favorite of carnivores in the vicinity! Friendly, and less cramped than the Thai places. Average meal $10-$12
  
  
• Vynl Diner - 54th and 9th. Friendly and funky. Food is a mix of diner and Southeast Asian. Tends to be happy and noisy. Average meal $15
  
  
• Renaissance Diner - 51st & 9th - open 24 hours. Enormous menu, slightly upscale diner. Reliable, decent and you know it's always open after a late show. I guess I think of it as a fixture because it's where I ate (with Manhattnik) on 9/11/01. Nobody ate at home that day, it seemed. Average meal $12-15 but you can easily spend less.

Now that I've written this, I'm hungry

Leigh, I've just had a look at the web site of the hôtel Castex, and it's not especially chep any longer indeed!
A decent very cheap hotel I've heard about is the hotel Flatters in the Quartier Latin (5th arrondissement) near the Port-Royal station, my brother stayed there several time when he had to come to Paris for some exams and there were single rooms for less than 45 euros
(but it's only one-star, so don't expect something wonderful...)

Finding good restaurants not too expensive in the neighborhood of the Opera Garnier is not that easy... Two days ago we discovered, thanks to a friend, a restaurant which offers typical food of Southwest France (it is associated to a farm in Corrèze) at really low prices, all main courses (cassoulet, confit de canard, magret de canard...) are below 9 euros and even the wines are quite cheap. It's called "domaine de Lintillac"- but if you don't like duck food better not go there...
Else there are some restaurants on the Boulevard des Italiens, but most of them are not very original and are often crowded.
Now, if you don't care about the price, you can try the "café de la Paix" on the Place de l'Opéra...

Now that I no longer live in New York, I've come to rely on Priceline for hotels. Some of you may be familiar with the system — you bid on a room in a hotel of your choice of location and rating (two to five stars) and if your bid is accepted, you are booked for that room (you don't discover the name of your hotel until after your bid is accepted). It sounds risky, but I've used it three or four times and have been pleased. Last year I paid $100/night for a room at the Hilton (once the one on Sixth Ave. in the Fifties, and once the one on 42nd St.). The best deals come as close as possible to your date of stay.

Another good website for last minute (6 weeks) worldwide hotels is www.laterooms.com.

This is where hotels put their rooms up for sale when they're not booked. All ratings of hotels from guest houses up. On our last 2 trips to London to see RB we stayed in the 5* Grosvenor House, Park Lane for £116 reduced from £455, and the 5* Radisson Hampshire, Leicester Sqare for £99 reduced from £435!! Those are room prices, not per person!

We train and tube it in there, breakfast in MacDonalds, but have a sumptious hotel room!!

Our next trip is in June but is on a 'school' night, so we'll be coming straight back after the performance !

Tracey

Well, I just returned from a trip to St.Petersburg and Paris. Saw Pavlenko in Swan Lake which pretty much made the whole trip worth it, too me. In Paris we weren’t as lucky. It was under a Neumeier occupation (Nijinsky at Garnier, Sylvia at the Bastille), but seeing Legris dance was quite something. (During Sylvia, my gaze wondered, and I saw Estelle sitting a few rows in front of me! I called after her at the end, but she didn’t hear me ) Even off- season, hotels in Paris aren’t cheap, though it is possible to find something very reasonable. We stayed at Hotel St. Roch (on rue St. Roch in the 1st arrd.) a block away from Tuilleries and a ten-minute walk from the Opera (from 60-100 euros, everything else in that area is upwards $150). It was simple, but very clean and very quiet (great little restaurant right across the street—La Cordonnerie). Right next to it is its “sister” Hotel St.Honore. (I found www.123france.com extremely helpful in planning this trip). Airfare is probably cheapest in the winter, and there are NO TOURISTS, so you don’t have to stand in line for anything.

As for Russia… it’s a bit more complicated. It really does need to be well planned way in advance (since the Mariinsky only posts its schedule two months in advance, and casting, for all intents and purposes, not at all, it’s difficult to know what you’ll be seeing at the time when tickets should already be ordered—definite downside) Airfare is 450- 600 in the winter, 700-900 in the summer, and the earlier you buy, the cheaper it is (if you are going to Russia only—from the States-- Finnair is probably best)
Getting a visa can be a hassle. You need a visa support letter (an invitation) from either a person or a tourist agency in Russia. If you get it from a tourist agency or a hostel (I am not sure if a hotel can issue one), find out at the Russian Consulate whether they will accept a support letter issued by that particular agency or hostel BEFORE you buy it (in most cases you do need to pay for it). I had a “slight” problem this time around when I came to the Consulate, oh, about two weeks before our trip, and was told that the hostel that issued my invite is no loner recognized as a legal entity. That was a nice surprise for me, and apparently for the hostel (International Hostel Holiday). Anyhow, once you are inside the country, you have to get yourself registered with a local OVIR branch (they keep track of foreigners), but if you are staying at a hostel/hotel, they should take care of that for you. If you are there for at least a couple of weeks, it’s viable to rent an apartment (last time I did that, I paid about $250-a month- for a studio in the city center), but then you are completely on your own, and if you don’t speak any Russian at all, it can get complicated. In fact, if you’ve never been to St. Petersburg, have no friends there, going for just a few days, and don’t know the language, it might be easier to go with a group or to stay in an American style hotel (like the Sheraton, a.k.a. Nevsky Palace). It ain’t cheap, but it’s less hairy.
Theater tickets can be bought from a scalper (they deliver or can be found in front of the Mariinsky before any performance). If you don’t want the hassle, get the tickets at the box office (or though your concierge), but keep in mind that there is a separate (higher) rate for tourists (tickets for natives are blue, yellow for foreigners).
Once you get there, pick up a copy of the St. Petersburg Times (it’s free), it comes out once a week and has all the pertinent theater, movies, restaurant, etc, information. That’s pretty much it. Oh, end of May, June—best weather, white nights:)

So you were at that "Sylvia"? (When reading your post, I first thought "but how did she know what I look like?" before remembering the wedding photographs thread ;) ) I'm sorry not to have noticed you- well, I had no idea someone was looking for me, and my husband and I went home quite quickly to have dinner! That's a missed opportunity I agree that seeing Legris is quite something- well, that was the main reason why I attended that performance!

Same here! I have to say, that even in the complete and utter c... that is Neumeier's Sylvia, Legris was mesmerizing.
Perhaps we can meet the next time we go to Paris .

i admire (and am envious of) you ALL.

Thank you all - those who travel and those who live in the places other (want to) travel to - for your wonderful reports. This board is the best:cool:

Since the seasons have already begun in many places, I thought I would bump this topic back up in case it might come in handy.

I am traveling to Greece for a dance conference next month in Naxos. Any tips or tricks would be helpful to hear.

I have also on a number of occasions traveled for ballet purposes and stayed with friends (or friends of friends of friends...).

OK, my tips:

For St Petersburg: if you email the Mariinsky and explain that you are trying to plan a trip, they might be able to send you the schedule for the whole season. This was my experience last year, anyway. They were very nice. Also, you can reserve/order tickets directly by email, which worked out wonderfully.
(7 days in St Petersburg, of which I attended Mariinsky performance on 4 and a student performance on one!)

Travel to Russia is, regrettably, still a major bureaucratic hassle. For this reason, it might be worth considering package tours and just picking and choosing the activities. The prices can be very competitive with airfare + moderate hotel. I have been to Russia about 10 times and I always keep this option in mind.
The St Petersburg theaters continue to have dual pricing for foreigners and locals, but I hear that the Moscow theaters have finally done away with it.

Other places: it can be very difficult to get schedules in advance unless you have a very specific goal (eg specific theater or company). However, nowadays most major theaters have an email address through which some information can be obtained (eg the Mariinsky and also the opera house in Sofia, which promptly replied to a query about a month ago).

Otherwise, check a local paper for theater information and/or ask at your hotel and keep your eyes peeled for posters/etc. I caught a wonderful performance in Athens last weekend (POB at an ancient outdoor theater) because I spotted a poster and then looked up the information in the newspaper.

Here in London the "bureaucratic hassles" have simply increased over the years and I'm hearing horror stories of people having to abort their trips to Russia beacause their visas weren't processed in time. Visas can now cost up to £120 plus a surcharge if you have an EU passport. I seriously believe that these people are running some sort of racket.

FANTASTIC THREAD. :yes:

Hope this can remain as a perpetual mainstay. It's a great source of information -- the kind you could never get anywhere else.

While I've traveled extensively to perform, schedules are such that I could never see much ballet while traveling, except for Montreal.

However, it has been wonderful to be in festivals with ethnic dance companies from all over the world and to be staying in the same facilities with them for weeks at a time. One of my all time favorite membories was teaching the Notre Dame Fight Song to a rowdy gang of Soviet Georgians late one night in our dorm. These, by the way, are the fellas who dance en pointe without pointe shoes. They are in full soldier regalia complete with swords, and do mind boggling turns in the air, landing on one knee, etc. They are -- dare I say -- the sexiest dancers I have ever seen. Years ago, there was a commercial for Dannon Yogurt that featured dancers from Soviet Georgia -- the message was that if you eat this food you'lll dance like this when you're 100 years old.

It may not be nearly as exotic as other ports of call, but I've gone with friends to Jackson for the IBC, and when that rolls around again, I'll be glad to share all relevant information.

What the heck, let's revive this thread again with a tip!

I just found out on a travel board (www.flyertalk.com) that American Airlines is having a major sale on San Francisco-JFK flights - in either direction. I just got one for next March (SFB's programs 4 and 5) for $137 round trip - including taxes. Cheapest I've seen it in years.

My guess is this fare will be gone in a day or two so if you're in SF and want to visit NYC to see the ballet or vice versa, jump on it! www.aa.com .

The Bolshoi and Kirov/Mariinsky now have their fall schedules up online--no need to beg their office by email. :-)

Sadly, it remains a hassle to travel to Russia as an independent tourist. :-(

Yes, a major hassle and what’s more it gets far more difficult as the years go by rather than easier. The cost of visas is an outrage and on my last trip I was actually made to pay a surcharge (of the equivalent of $30) for having an Irish passport!

Another recent problem in Moscow has been the demolishing of the old Soviet era hotels by developers making it near impossible to find accommodation at a reasonable price in the centre of the city. In fact there is an article in today’s Moscow Times announcing the demolition of yet another tourist hotel. Well worth reading as it sums up the attitude of the Russian authorities to visitors to their city. http://www.themoscowtimes.com/stories/2004/08/11/040.html

I stayed at this hotel on my last visit to Moscow. It is located at the back of Red Square and is within walking distance of the Bolshoi theatre. Yes the service at the reception desk was very slow and rather poor, but there was nothing wrong with the actual rooms and as for the statement:

"It is a murky hotel -- dirty windows, dirty books, dirty clientele," said one Western hotel consultant".

What a disgraceful thing to say! I would like to make it quite clear as someone who can be ranked as part of this hotel's clientele - I am not dirty!

If I want to see a Russian company in the future I’ll go to see them on tour. After a number of visits dating back to 1974 I’m now in the mood to call it a day, I doubt if I’ll be going back in a hurry.

I recently came back from a wonderful trip to Saint-Petersburg. Everything went extremely well. I was travelling indepedently with my mother. We encountered NO PROBLEMS watsoever. I cannot say for myself that:.
I wouldn't ever go back there in a group. I need my freedom when I travel, and I found that it is a great way to interact with local people and get a more real feel of the surrounding way of life. Of course we had to plan the visa arrangments ahead of time. But once you know that you need it to travel there, I just can't see where the problem is. Every country has their plus and minuses. Saint-Pete. has such a wealth of culture that I found this a small price to pay to have acces to all this beauty. I went to the Mariinsky and bought various tickets from cheap to expensive, depending on what was left. However, this was always cheaper than what our hotel was suggesting. I absolutely do not regret having travelled that far to see my favorite company perform in its hometown.
I plan on going back next year. But that is just me.

sylphide is quite right that, once there, being in St Petersburg is a delight and largely hassle-free. I enthusiastically recommend it and remember fondly all of my visits there, even the ones where luggage got lost and parasites attacked my stomach.

It's the getting there that's a bother--arranging for a Russian visa typically takes about a month and costs about $100-200 for US citizens (not sure about EU) when all is said and done--photos, mailing, processing, etc. AND one must have prepaid hotel reservations, which is fine if you need a hotel but bothersome and expensive if you don't. (Private visit visas are possible but entail another layer of bother and expense on the part of hosts plus about the same cost for the traveler.)

Ticket purchases _can_ also be problematic. St Petersburg still has 2-tier pricing for foreigners and locals at certain theaters, which means that in principle one cannot just cruise by the corner ticket kiosk and see what's available. Sometimes they will refuse to sell the tickets to foreigners at all, and other times the ticket-takers at the theater will inform you that you need to go somewhere and pay extra. Of course, if you go directly to the theater, it's no fuss at all and online purchases are possible.

It's just a lot more bothersome than, say, flying to Paris for a week. I would go to St Pete a lot more often if the logistical arrangements were easier, and since St Pete is such a gem, it saddens me that the obstacles exist. Maybe in another ten years they won't.

Resurrecting this thread, boy howdy, if you're considering a vacation, the USA is on sale. With the low dollar, maybe this is the time to see NYCB, ABT, SFB or any of our other companies?

From Britain, American Airlines is offering discounted flights all through 2005 - http://www.aa.com/content/uk/specialOffers/rbs.jhtml

NYCB's winter season is Jan. 4-Feb 27, performances Tues-Sat. NY weather is cold-ish but usually not miserable (except when it is. . .) I can't say there's a must see week - check the schedule at nycballet.com. Undiscounted tickets at NYCB are as low as $30, and can be found for less usually. That's a good less than GBP20 for a decent seat. Food's a bargain in comparison too.

So come and visit. You can see just how weird a nation we are for yourself!

For a visitor planning on buying four individual tickets or two pairs to NYCB, if you're going on the cheap, consider a membership to theFourth Ring Society. It costs $20 and entitles bearer to buy two tickets in the eponymous Fourth Ring (normally $30) for $15 each. There is no limit on the number of performances, but only two tix per evening/matinee. Plus, there's a $6 handling fee. So it pays for itself on the fourth ticket, if my quick mental calculations are correct. Membership is annual, covering both Winter and Spring seasons within a calendar year.

For anyone coming to New York, the two hotels closest to Lincoln Center, the Empire and the Mayflower, are both closed! My guess is they will be demolished for more expensive high rise apartment buildings. I used to be able to find relatively inexpensive rooms at the Mayflower from time to time, and it was quiet and charming - the suites had little kitchens and comfortable sitting rooms - I guess those days are gone.